How to Choose the Right Type of Load Bearing Beam for Your Project

And why what holds the beam matters just as much

Whether you’re remodeling a space or building something new from scratch, one thing’s for sure: the load bearing beams you choose aren’t just important—they’re critical. These beams do the heavy lifting, literally, transferring weight from above down into your foundation.

But here's something people often forget: a strong beam is only as good as the thing holding it in place. That’s where beam pockets come in. They're the hidden heroes that give those beams a solid seat to rest in.

Popular Types of Support Beams

Let’s break down a few common types of load-bearing beams you’ll come across:

1. Steel I-Beams

These are the go-to for big spans and heavy loads. You’ll often see them in basements or anywhere a wide open layout is needed. Strong, durable, and tough to beat.

2. LVL Beams

Short for laminated veneer lumber, these are engineered beams made from layers of wood glued together. They’re strong, straight, and a favorite in residential construction because they’re lighter and easier to install than steel.

3. Glulam Beams

These are also engineered wood, but designed to look good while doing the job. If your beam’s going to be visible, a glulam might be the way to go.

4. Solid Wood Beams

Old-school, tried and true. They still get used in some builds, but they're more limited in how far they can span without support.

The Pocket Makes the Difference

Most folks spend all their time picking the beam and forget to think about where it lands. But that connection point—the beam pocket—is where the real magic happens. It’s what supports the beam and helps it do its job.

At Golden Beam Pockets, we’ve designed an adjustable, cast-in-place pocket that takes the guesswork out of this step. No more messing with temporary forms, styrofoam blocks, or risky on-site welding. Just drop it in and pour around it—it’s fast, clean, and reliable.

Compared to traditional methods, our system cuts crane time by up to 80% and helps you get it right on the first try. Less shimming, more progress.

Picking the Right Combo

So how do you choose? Start with your engineer—they’ll look at the load, the span, and local building codes to recommend steel, LVL, glulam, or something else. But don’t stop there. Make sure the pocket you’re using:

• Matches your beam size (ours fit W6–W27 beams)
• Can be set right into your forms for quicker pours
• Doesn’t need welding, shims, or extra fiddling
• Helps your beam sit flat and level every time

Common Questions

How much does a support beam cost?
It depends—steel beams might run $100–$300 per foot. LVL is usually less. Just remember to include labor and whatever you need to secure the beam.

How much weight can one support?
That comes down to the beam's size, material, and span. An LVL beam can hold several thousand pounds, but it really needs an engineer’s sign-off.

What’s the strongest type of beam?
I-beams (also called W-beams) are a top choice for a reason. Their shape helps them resist bending, even under big loads.

How far can a beam span?
An engineered wood beam might stretch 40 feet in a residential build. Steel can go farther—but only if it’s backed up with the right pockets and supports.